It allows precision application of the grease to areas such as the forks. It is designed to be used with grease with Teflon®.

Standard Cycle Oil is a basic mineral oil for chains and pivot parts. However, it is relatively thin and can be washed off by the rain. It requires frequent replenishing. Smax is a chain specific wax with Krytox®. It is used in the summer on bike chains giving a low rolling resistance and very high protection level. It lasts a long time and doesn't drip off.

TF2 aerosols: General purpose aerosols with Teflon®. The lubricant dries quickly and the Teflon® keeps working. Ideal for chains and all moving parts. The coating it forms dispels water.

TF2 Plus: Ideal for dry road conditions. It is light with low rolling resistance. However it can be dispersed with large volumes of water.

TF2 Extreme: Thick heavy duty lubricant which clings to the chain in wet conditions. Refillable pump action lube with Teflon®: It is used in a similar function to the TF2 aerosol but it is thicker as it is not required to be thinned down and more economical as it can be refilled. You also get 100% lubricant as opposed to circa 50% gas as in an aerosol.

It is a good general purpose bike grease. It is water resistant and cheaper than grease with Teflon®. However it cannot be used on suspension forks and the tube is not designed to fit the grease gun.

It makes the grease last longer and smoother running. It can also be used on suspension forks when many others can not. It also repels water.

It dries quickly without leaving any deposits on the discs so will not effect your braking ability. It neither corrodes nor contaminates.

With Dirtwash Polish the paste is more concentrated and can also remove small scratches on the paintwork.

It is a lot easier and quicker and more effective than a second hand toothbrush! The Citrus degreaser cleaning fluid supplied with it is especially formulated with a low water content so as not to corrode the chain.

You don't really but they are shaped to make cleaning the bike much easier.

Detergents contain corrosive salts and Dirtwash is specially formulated to work on road grime without attacking paintwork or modern bike components.

Inner tube widths and pressures vary. On high pressure inner tubes the narrow profile repair kit would be more appropriate than an 'Airtite' kit, for example. Also, some of the kits have tools included and become more or less complete roadside repair kits.

Inner tubes are getting expensive and if people do carry a spare but they tend to only carry one. What happens if you get more than one puncture? A puncture repair kit generally will repair six punctures and is much cheaper.

The traditional one mends the tyre from the outside and is only suitable for ATB tyres. The new kit with super glue and a patch is suitable for all tubeless tyres. It is quicker to use and cheaper.

Cycle Tyre Seal: This is a very handy 'Get you home' repair. You just squeeze the product into the valve and it re-inflates the tyre and mends it at the same time. However it will only last for a fairly short time and you will need to replace the inner tube at home.

Dr Sludge: This is generally put in before you have a puncture and sits in the inner tube and is forgotten. It works without you even being aware that it is working.

The disadvantage is that quite a number of 'Presta' valves do not have removable cores and therefore cannot be used. In this case you need to buy a ready filled Dr Sludge inner tube which are also available. The disadvantage is that they do add a small amount of weight which might affect some racing bikes.

Dr Sludge Tapes: These give good protection but the tyres must be kept fully inflated. Otherwise they will slip and can cause you punctures. Again the racing fraternity might notice the weight.

Yes. Weldtite Red Devil patches are quicker and easier to use than traditional patches. They are ideal for young people and those of limited experience as they are applied in a similar way to a piece of elastoplast. They also work as well as a traditional patch.

You need to use a torque wrench when you tighten most bolts & nuts in your bike. The relevant torque settings should be available from your bike manufacturer.

Cyclo nylon tyre levers have glass fibre in them so they are very strong. They are lighter than steel and don't damage the wheel rims even if they are alloy.

It is far more accurate and has no moving parts. It works on Presta and Schrader valves and gives you a choice of different pressure scales.

They are far stronger and more durable than mild steel.

They make the removal of wheels much easier and quicker.

It is the accuracy of the ball bearings and their ability to last and not shatter in use. Weldtite ball bearings are British and are accurate to 1 micron. They are case hardened not through hardened as that leads to brittleness.

It's a great deal quicker, needs no effort and the smart valve on it allows it to be used on all cycle vales. The disadvantages are that it is quite expensive and the cylinders can not be re-used so it is less 'Green'.